Matzoh Ball Gumbo: Culinary Tales of the Jewish South
Author: Marcie Cohen Ferris
From the colonial era to the present, Ferris examines the expressive power of food throughout Southern Jewish history. She demonstrates how Southern Jews reinvented culinary traditions as they adjusted to living in a largely Christian region where forbidden foods such as pork, shrimp, oysters, and crab are intensely popular. Richly illustrated, this culinary tour of the Jewish South includes anecdotes, oral histories, and more than thirty recipes to try at home.
Publishers Weekly
Many traditional Southern foods-pulled-pork barbecue, crab cakes, fried oyster po' boys, to name a few-violate traditional Jewish dietary laws, which forbid the consumption of pork and shellfish. What's a Southern Jew to do? Anthropological historian Ferris (UNC-Chapel Hill) answers that question in a gustatory tour of the Jewish South. She uncovers many dishes that blend Jewish and Southern foodways (recipes included for such tasties as Temple Israel Brisket and Cornmeal-Fried Fish Fillets with Sephardic Vinagre Sauce). Ferris sees food as a symbol that encompasses the problem of how Jews live in a region dominated by Christians: "The most tangible way to understand Jewish history and culture in the South is at the dinner table." Cynics will wonder if a Jewish kugel (noodle casserole) prepared in the South is really any different from kugel in Chicago. Ferris's answer is an emphatic yes-because Jews in the South face different challenges than those in Chicago. Southern Jews must be more intentional about cooking that kugel and passing the recipe down from generation to generation. If this book were a restaurant, Michelin would award it two out of three stars: not absolutely first-rate, but "excellent cooking, worth a detour." (Oct.) Copyright 2005 Reed Business Information.
Library Journal
This new work from Ferris (associate director, Carolina Ctr. for Jewish Studies) successfully merges humor, Southern Jewish history, and-best of all-recipes. Crispy Baked Chicken and Simmered Black-Eyed Peas with Tomatoes share space with family photographs and chapter discussions of various regions: Arkansas, where Ferris grew up; Savannah and Charleston; New Orleans and Natchez; Atlanta; the Mississippi Delta; and Memphis. Throughout, Ferris includes amusing childhood anecdotes like eating at the Dixie Pig and how her mother refused to allow ham in the house. Many of the recipes that she features (more than 30 in all) belonged to her grandmothers, whom she credits with inspiring her to study the Jewish South. With recipes like Sabbath Marble Cake and Mimah's Cheesecake, this book is sure to be a hit with anyone interested in cookery, Jewish history, or Southern history. Recommended for all libraries.-Nicole Mitchell, Birmingham, AL Copyright 2005 Reed Business Information.
Go to: Commanders Palace New Orleans Cookbook or Sake Handbook
How to Cook Everything: Bittman Takes on America's Chefs
Author: Mark Bittman
Join Mark Bittman as he takes on the nation's top chefs in a culinary battle of home-style vs. restaurant style!
"Mark knows food. Mark knows chefs. Chefs know Mark.You know this has gotta be a great cookbook!"
—Al Roker, Host, NBC's Today show
The Chefs Who Took the Challenge
• JOSÉ ANDRÉS, Zaytinya/Washington, D.C.
• DANIEL BOULUD, Daniel/New York
• JAMES BOYCE, Studio/Laguna Beach
• GARY DANKO, Restaurant Gary Danko/San Francisco
• SUZANNE GOIN, Lucques and A.O.C./Los Angeles
• GABRIELLE HAMILTON, Prune/New York
• ANNA KLINGER, Al di Là/New York
• CHARLES PHAN, The Slanted Door/San Francisco
• MICHEL RICHARD, Citronelle/Washington, D.C.
• SUVIR SARAN, Devi/New York
• CHRIS SCHLESINGER, East Coast Grill & Raw Bar/Boston-Cambridge
• KERRY SIMON, Simon Kitchen & Bar/Las Vegas
• JEAN-GEORGES VONGERICHTEN, Jean-Georges/New York
Publishers Weekly
The cheeky title on the latest from high-profile Bittman explains it all. Thirteen chefs from four-starred Jean-Georges Vongerichten and Daniel Boulud to the lesser known Kerry Simon of Las Vegas and James Boyce of Laguna Beach present their recipes and then Bittman concocts simpler versions that use fewer ingredients and take less effort and time. The results vary. Michel Richard (of Citronelle in Washington, D.C.) offers a complex Layered Vitello Tonnato, and Bittman comes up with inspired Turkey (Tonnato) Sandwiches, which call for a tonnato-type sauce on turkey slices from the local deli. On the other hand, Anna Klinger (of Al Di La in New York City) presents Beet Ravioli with Butter and Poppy Seeds, and Bittman counters with Pasta with Savoy Cabbage, which has nothing in common with Klinger's dish except that it includes pasta. Thus the concept is a gimmick that at times compares apples and oranges. Nevertheless, with the continuing public adoration of trendy chefs and the more practical wish to prepare chef-worthy meals at home, this book will attract Bittman's legion of fans, who will be tuning in to this spring's PBS series upon which the book is based. (Apr.) Copyright 2005 Reed Business Information.
Table of Contents:
Introduction.The Chefs and the Dishes.
Starters.
Fish.
Poultry and Eggs.
Meat.
Pasta, Rice, and Vegetables.
Desserts.
Sauces, Condiments, and Other Basics.
Index.
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